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Cut list optimizer for sheets and timber

List your parts and the sheets or lengths you can buy: the optimizer packs them with the saw cut and grain allowed for, draws each sheet with numbered cuts you can follow on a track or panel saw, and tells you what to buy — free, with no small part limit.

  • Free
  • No sign-up
  • PDF & CSV

How to make a cut list for plywood or timber

  1. 1Choose sheets (plywood, MDF, chipboard, plasterboard) or boards and lengths (timber, battens, skirting).
  2. 2Enter the sheet size or the stock lengths you can buy, with prices if you want the cost.
  3. 3Set the saw cut (kerf) and any edge trim, and pick the unit for every size.
  4. 4List your parts — name, length, width and how many; tick grain to keep a part's length along the sheet's grain.
  5. 5Follow each sheet's numbered cuts, keep the offcuts, and save, print or share the plan.

How the cutting plan is worked out

  1. 01Each part gets one saw cut added to its length and width; so does the sheet, after any edge trim.
  2. 02Sheets: parts go into free rectangles, biggest first; each placement makes two straight cuts that run right across a piece (guillotine cuts).
  3. 0340 combinations of sort order, split rule and fit rule are tried; the plan with the fewest sheets, then the biggest offcut, wins.
  4. 04Boards: parts go longest first into the board they leave least spare in; each board then becomes the cheapest stock length that still holds its parts.
  5. 05Waste = 1 − part area (or length) ÷ what you buy.

Guillotine cuts are the kind a panel saw, table saw or track saw can make: every cut goes from one edge of a piece to the other. Plans with stop cuts can pack a little tighter, but you can't make them safely by hand.

The saw cut matters more than people think: with a 3 mm blade, eight 610 mm squares no longer fit on one 2440 × 1220 mm sheet — only three per sheet do. A track saw blade is about 2.2 mm (Festool TS 55) and a circular saw blade about 2.4–3.2 mm. Check the sheet's real size too: many are a few millimetres off or not quite square, which is what the edge trim is for.

Tips before you buy

  • Measure the sheet first, and trim the factory edges if they are damaged or out of square.
  • Mark every part before the first cut, and saw on the waste side of each line.
  • Tick grain for doors, panels and anything where the wood figure should run the same way.
  • Parts of the same width cut fastest from one long strip: rip the strip, then cross-cut it.
  • Keep big offcuts flat and labelled — the plan lists the ones worth keeping.

Frequently asked questions

Is there a part limit?

No sign-up and no fee, and up to 600 pieces in one plan — enough for a whole kitchen. Everything is worked out in your browser.

Why does the saw cut change the number of sheets?

Every cut turns a strip of wood into dust. Eight 610 mm squares fill a 2440 × 1220 mm sheet exactly with no cut, but with a 3 mm blade four squares need 2452 mm, so only three fit across and one row down — three sheets instead of one.

What does grain do?

It keeps that part's length along the sheet's length, so the wood figure (or the long direction of a laminate) runs the same way. Without it the optimizer may turn the part a quarter to save material.

Can I mix stock lengths for timber?

Yes. Add every length the yard sells, with prices, and the plan buys the cheapest mix that holds all your parts.

Can I follow the plan with a track saw?

Yes. Every cut runs right across the piece it is in; make them in the numbered order and measure from the edges the plan names.

Can I save or share the plan?

Download a PDF with every sheet drawn and the cut order, add it to My renovation, or copy a link that opens the same parts.

Sources

Formulas last reviewed: September 30, 2026 ·How we check our formulas